Tuesday, April 24, 2012

The Last Wild Road to Alaska

The Stewart-Cassiar Highway (BC37) 

 


The Cassiar (Highway 37 North) traverses through some of the most remote and beautiful scenery in British Columbia. It is one of only two land routes to the State of Alaska and has few sparsely populated areas along the way. The total distance from the junction of Highway 16 to the Yukon border is about 450 miles. Wild rivers, deep canyons, magnificent mountains, clear lakes and pristine areas makes this area very unique. The road north starts in the town of Kitwanga on the Skeena River and travels north to connect with the Alaska Highway (97) near Watson Lake.

St. Paul's Anglican Church (1893) in Kitwanga. To the right is the original bell tower. This church is over 100 years old.

 This route has been upgraded in through the years and now is completely hard surfaced except for some sections of gravel on either side of the Stikine River Bridge. This road is suitable for all types of vehicles.


This lone wolf crossed the road in front of me.
The Cassiar Highway (BC Highway 37) runs west of the Skeena Mountains and east of the Coast Range, connecting the great northwestern rain forest with the spruce forests of the Yukon. At Dease Lake the highway crosses the continent’s other great divide, where the waters stop flowing west into the misty rainforests of the Pacific Ocean and flow instead north through pine forests ending up in the deltas of the treeless Arctic. A short walk from the roadside brings you to the unspoiled wilderness that is the home for wolf, moose, fox, lynx, black and grizzly bears just to name a few.

Black Bear showing me his best side. Cassiar Highway
Red Fox
In 2009, I drove north on the Cassiar on my way to Alaska while transporting one of our Planet Earth Adventures vehicles.  The scenery back then was amazing! Now the highway is taking a different look and one that I am not particularly happy about. All along the Cassiar, large swaths of trees have been cut down to make room for what appears to be a road-widening project. In some areas, very large and wide clearings have been clear-cut through the spruce forest as if to re-route the road. Huge fires and smoke billows from the clear cut areas as workers burn the trees that have been taken down. I have been researching the Internet but have not been able to find any information as to what is happening here. I hope that I am wrong, but this project will forever change the allure of what makes this road unique. 

Lynx
During my road-trip I have been asked by many friends as to which road I would take to Alaska, the ALCAN or the Cassiar. For me, I have always been attracted to the Cassiar Highway because of its remoteness and wild feel. A good friend of mine, Helen said it best, “I've opted for the Cassiar almost every time simply because it's wilder and more to my liking” The same feelings hold true for me. It is the road less traveled, at least until now. This road has never let me down when it comes to wildlife sightings. Almost immediately upon entering the highway today, I saw so many black bears that I lost count! Along this road, it is not uncommon to see wildlife crossing and walking the road. When this project is completed I wonder what it will be like. Soon, it appears that it will be a 4-lane highway. Most of the wood surfaced bridges will be replaced by concrete & steel bridges. The road will probably be crowded with speeding cars, 18-wheelers and RV's. At least I’ve had the opportunity in my lifetime to experience this amazing road the way it was!

Today’s roadtrip along the Cassiar Highway has been bittersweet for me, as I know the next time I drive though here this awesome road will not have the same look & feel. 

Clear cutting work being done along the Cassiar Highway

2 comments:

  1. Bittersweet indeed, my friend. I saw the beginnings of that last fall, and I knew something big was coming, but your description here grieves me tonight. A road improvement of that magnitude can only be a precursor to more development, more intrusions, more wilderness lost forever.

    On a brighter note, your wildlife pictures are magnificent! Travel safely, see you soon.

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  2. road engineers always need to be reeled in a little bit, and it sounds like the road needed a few influential advocates it didn't get -- maybe because the area is sparsely populated. it always pains me to see all the cutting along the parks, glenn and other alaska routes. most recently, the defoliation along the lower part of the sterling for the new natural gas pipeline. can appreciate the enhanced safety around the hope cutoff, and parts of the glenn north of palmer -- but the sections that are little changed from the old days, where the trees come right up to the road are so much more interesting.

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